The Wairarapa occupies the southeast corner of the North Island, sharing roughly the same latitude as Marlborough.
Pinot Noir found a home here early. In the 1890s, retired gentleman farmer William Beetham and his French wife Hermance planted Pinot in their Landsdowne vineyard near Masterton. Beetham was effusive in his praise for the grape in a 1901 press interview: “(Mr Beetham) has tried other varieties, but the Pineau Noir, his first favourite, still surpasses all others.”
The region rose quickly to prominence in the modern era. The early expressions from wineries such as Martinborough Vineyard and Ata Rangi began collecting gold medals through the 1980s, establishing the region as a Pinot stronghold. These were among the first New Zealand Pinots to draw overseas attention.
Today, there are 72 wineries (almost all boutique in size) spread across the region, which is centred on a large flood plain that spreads out below the sheltering Tararua Range. The Ruamahanga River flows north to south, linking the sub-regions of Masterton. Gladstone and Martinborough.
Most of the region’s vines grow on old alluvial river terraces. It’s a hot spot in summer and very dry – the town of Martinborough is the driest place in the whole North Island. Exposure to the south and its chilling winds acts as a natural brake on yields.
The Wairarapa has 969ha under vine, making it one of the smaller New Zealand wine regions. Pinot Noir accounts for over half these plantings. It is the region’s most successful grape and the reason for its global reputation.